Serene, peaceful, sublime!

Hualampong Station in Bangkok is the starting point for this journey of nostalgia. You are soon whisked away from the normal hustle and bustle of the station and welcomed aboard the gleaming Pullmans of the Eastern and Oriental Express and escorted to your cabin. An early evening departure and, once underway, a quick shower, change and down to the bar. Well that’s what most people do!! I preferred to go to the open air observation carriage at the end of the train – there is also a bar there! But here you can watch the ever changing scenery around you. From the Bangkok back streets which edge the track until eventually the rice paddies and countryside on the outskirts, there is always something to see whilst the light holds.

For the first evening, the dress is normally smart, casual whilst dining in the elegant restaurant car before a quick nightcap and back to your cabin. By this time it will have been transformed into comfortable sleeping accommodation by the cabin butlers.

Next morning, an early start if you don’t want to miss the train making its way from Wang Po across the wooden trellis viaduct beside towering cliffs before arriving at River Kwai Bridge station> Here we took a short walk to board a local raft for a cruise amongst the lush scenery of the river. An historian gave a very informative talk about the notorious Thai- Burma railway constructed by prisoners of war during World War II. There was time to visit the cemetery and the museum. I found this particularly moving as I have previously escorted returning veterans in parts of neighbouring Burma. Back to the train and continue south. The train usually makes a brief stop at Hua Hin – on the Gulf of Siam, where the King of Thailand and his family spend the summer months. It is worth taking a quick look at the Royal Waiting Room on the station – very ornate! More relaxation before a sumptuous dinner on board.

By morning we were crossing into Malaysia and after a brunch, most passengers opted for a guided tour of colonial Georgetown on the neighbouring island of Penang. Unfortunately, I dozed off and missed the tour. The butler woke me and asked if I wanted to join the tour. When I said “yes”, he kindly informed me that it had already left!! Funnily enough, I happened to know the local agent who organised the tour. He knew I was on board so sent me back a gift with one of the other passengers. A travelling alarm clock – very drole!!

After dinner that night, for which a good number of passengers wore evening dress, we arrived at Kuala Lumpur, the capital of Malaysia. A fitting end to the day as the station itself is a magnificent building with opulent architecture and rounded towers. Then back to the Bar Car for a nightcap whilst the resident pianist tickles the ivories!

Another early start for me at least as I adjourned to the Observation Car to watch the ever changing scenery as we left Malaysia across the Staits of Johor to the” garden city” of Singapore. After breakfast, we bid farewell to the charming crew who lined up in their smart, elegant uniforms as we disembarked at Keppel Road station.

I stayed on for a couple of days and spoilt myself by staying at the glorious Four Seasons Hotel. Whist exploring Singapore, I stopped for a drink at the Raffles Hotel, another reminder of colonial Asia, and was able to reminisce on the fabulous, relaxing time I had spent on the Eastern & Oriental. It’s not cheap, but worth every penny to be pampered royally from start to finish. I highly recommend it!!

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